ARIZONA: Shrimp Endiablados

Mariscos Chihuahua is a bright place in Tucson with sunlight streaming in picture windows, illuminating a tempestuous seascape mural that covers one wall. We realize Tucson isn't known for seafood, but the Chihuahuans know their shrimp, and the menu here lists a dozen ways to eat 'em, including "drowned raw," meaning ceviche-style in a lime marinade. Our favorite is endiablados—or devilishly hot. They are presented in a hot-sauce bath strewn across a field of crisp French fries. The broad fish-shaped plate also holds a mound of rice, a green salad, and a warm tortilla wrapped in foil. There are lots of shrimp on the plate— maybe a couple dozen—and what's great about the presentation is that the endiablados sauce seeps down and flavors the French fries. As you approach the end of your shrimp, you then get to enjoy a heap of fries infused with saucy heat and seafood sweetness. Also, the staff are friendly and the stereo system belts out Mexican tunes that make every meal feel like a party.

Mariscos Chihuahua
2902 E. 22nd Street
Tucson, Arizona
Tel: 520 326 1529
Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner (9 a.m. to 9 p.m.)