Food + Wine

Summer Seafood

by Jane and Michael Stern


El Indio's menu is classic Cal-Mex with all sorts of combo plates topped with sour cream and guacamole—but the pick of the pack is that San Diego specialty, a fish taco. This is a hefty meal built inside a double layer of soft, warm, made-here corn tortillas. They encase a chunk of white cod with a golden crust that's nestled on a bed of ruggedly shredded cabbage, a few tomato chunks, and a faintly peppery pink tartar sauce. Give it a squeeze of lime, and you have a beachside meal par excellence. Except, though, El Indio is actually in Mission Hills—a family-owned, quick-service taqueria in business since 1940. There are a few shared seats at the counter, but we suggest heading for the sunny, fenced-in patio across the street.

El Indio
3695 India Street
San Diego, California
Tel: 619 299 0333
Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, daily

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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.



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