Food + Wine

American Food

by JANE AND MICHAEL STERN

NEW HAVEN: White clam pizza
Dating back to 1923, Pepe's is a brash neighborhood joint on New Haven's pizza parlor row that makes what we consider to be the best pizza on earth. Any toppings are fine (pepperoni especially so), and the crust is always sensational—brittle at its edges, ruggedly chewy where it puffs up, with burned grains of semolina from the oven's brick floor scattered on its underside. The best pizza of all is white clam, a specialty throughout New Haven. An elementary pie strewn with freshly opened littleneck clams and their juice, a scattering of grated sharp Romano, a salvo of coarsely minced garlic, and a drizzle of oil. No mozzarella, no tomato sauce—pure elegance.

Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana
157 Wooster Street
New Haven, Connecticut
Tel: 203 865 5762

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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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