Food + Wine

American Food

by JANE AND MICHAEL STERN

PHILADELPHIA: Cheesesteak
The cheesesteak is greasy, slippery, downright ignominious, and a barrel of fun to eat. Flaps of thin-sliced beef are sizzled on a grill with onions and hefted into a roll, then a trowel of melted cheese (often Cheez Whiz) is dripped on top. It's a combination of ingredients that transcend their modest nature to become something exceptional. If you want the classic sandwich, ask the counterman for "steak, wit'." Of course, it is also possible to have it wit'out: Hold the onions. There is no shortage of cheesesteak in and around Philadelphia, but arguably the best is Mama's Pizzeria, an unlikely suburban storefront far from the bustle of the Italian Market (where the cheesesteak was invented). Mama's is a bouquet of full-flavored beef, caramelized onions, and good cheese (choose from American, Provolone, or their own blend) loaded into a length of impeccably fresh, chewy bread.

Mama's Pizzeria
426 Belmont Avenue
Bala Cynwyd, Pennsylvania
Tel: 610 664 4757

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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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