Food + Wine

Winter Comfort Food

by Jane and Michael Stern

OHIO: French Toast and Goetta

For native Cincinnatians, goetta is a soothing taste of home. A distant cognate of Pennsylvania scrapple, this side dish is a pork-and-pin-oat loaf that is cut into slices and fried to melt-in-the-mouth tenderness. For the right indoctrination, you must stop in to Hathaway's Coffee Shop and order up the superb French toast that goetta so nicely accompanies. The French toast arrives dusted with powdered sugar and topped with a glob of butter large enough that it will melt to cover all four slices. On the side comes a pitcher of warm syrup. Hathaway's itself is a trip back in time: a bustling urban coffee shop snuggled in the Carew Arcade, complete with uniformed waitresses who pad the room refilling coffee cups.

Hathaway's Coffee Shop
441 Vine Street
Cincinnati, Ohio
Tel: 513 621 1332

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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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