Food + Wine

Winter Comfort Food

by Jane and Michael Stern

INDIANA: Apple Dumplings

Nick's Kitchen is the place where the pork tenderloin sandwich was invented 99 years ago. Since Jean Anne Bailey took over in 1989, the folksy café in this small Hoosier town (the birthplace of former Vice President Dan Quayle—and yes, they will serve you a potato) has also become a beacon for great desserts. Pies are wonderful not only for their fillings made from local fruit or homemade butterscotch but for a crust that is so flaky that it nearly evaporates on the tongue. That same crust encloses Jean Anne's magnificent dumpling, a bowl of hot-apple heartland warmth that vents aromatic steam under the large scoop of fast-melting vanilla ice cream plopped on top.

Nick's Kitchen
506 N. Jefferson Street
Huntington, Indiana
Tel: 260 356 6618

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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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