Food + Wine

Winter Comfort Food

by Jane and Michael Stern

VERMONT: Braised Lamb Shank

More than two centuries old, the Dorset Inn sings of Yankee character. After all, it actually does have a crackling hearth, and it overlooks the classic village green. Chef and owner Sissy Hicks calls the meals she makes comfort food, and they are. But like the town of Dorset itself, eating here is a refined kind of country comfort with an unmistakable air of elegance. That means winter breakfast of crunchy waffles or corned beef hash laced with ribbons of caramelized onion; and such hearty supper specials such as pot roast Provençale, meat loaf (every Tuesday), and, best of all, the braised lamb shanks. The on-the-bone lamb drips juice and is fall-apart-tender. Sissy describes it as "a little barbaric with the shank hanging out of the bowl—but it is a stupendous meal." We contentedly agree.

Dorset Inn
8 Church Street
Dorset, Vermont
Tel: 802 867 5500

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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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