NEW YORK: Fish & Chips

Located near Skaneateles Lake, which is so pure that local towns drink its water unfiltered, Doug's calls its specialty a fish sandwich. But one glance at the "dinner" version reveals it to be a sensational plate of fish and chips (and, if desired, fried onions, too). Bought fresh in Boston five times a week, the Atlantic cod is moist, sweet, and gentle-flavored, encased in a sandy crust with just the right amount of crunch. It comes with pickly tartar sauce that is surprisingly unsweet. The sweetness comes in the form of Doug's superb cole slaw, which is finely chopped and fetchingly spicy. Service is eat-in-the-rough style: Place your order at the stand-up counter (from which you have an appetizing view of fish and fries coming out of the hot oil), pay for the meal, and wait (impatiently) for your name to be called.

Doug's Fish Fry
8 Jordan Street
Skaneateles, New York
Tel: 315 685 3288
Lunch and dinner daily