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Just off the slightly scruffier Plaza de Santa Ana is La Trucha, which serves possibly the best tapas in all of Madrid, including the most delicious boquerones fritos in the city. The crowded bar is the place to be, but there’s a small dining room if you want to take an actual knife and fork to the namesake trout (Calle Manuel Fernandez Gonzalez 3; 429-5833; tapas from $3). On the plaza itself is Cervecería Alemana (pictured), a favorite of Hemingway’s and generations of bullfighters who stayed just across the square, at the former Grand Hotel Reina Victoria—now a hyper-modern ME Madrid. Its long bar and extensive tapas menu, ever-flowing beer, and cheerful rooms make it easy to see why it was such a popular meeting place and remains so today (429-7033; tapas from $2).
Photograph by Boca Dorada/Wikimedia Commons
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