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To say that Café Populart, just around the corner, is an eclectic music venue is an understatement. One night I wandered in to find a husband-and-wife country duo, originally from Tennessee, called Cañones y Mantequilla (“Guns and Butter”). Since then, I’ve heard Cuban jazz, Chicago blues, and Celtic music in this narrow late-night spot (Calle de las Huertas 22). For an entirely different musical experience, Casa Patas (pictured) is a smoky hole-in-the-wall featuring bare-boned but impassioned flamenco that is far different from the over-produced, over-costumed performances most tourists see (Calle Canizares 10). There’s no music but lots of recapped drama at El Paseillo, a five-minute walk from the Plaza de Toros and the place to be after a bullfight. Start off with a sherry and a plate of morcilla (blood sausage); move on to beer or wine and lacy shrimp tortillitas (pancakes made with chickpea-flour), a specialty of the house (Francisco Navacerrada 58; 725-5783; entrées from $15).
Photograph courtesy Casa Patas
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