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Madrid may be smack in the center of the country, but the best seafood gets flown here first—and it is in ample evidence at La Trainera. If they’re in season, start with baby eels (so tiny and delicate they must be eaten with a wooden fork) and move on to shellfish a la plancha (cooked on a griddle with a touch of salt). My faves: jumbo red shrimp, called carabineros for the customs officers with uniforms the same color, and a slim and delicious lobster cousin, cigalas (Calle Lagasca 60; 576-8035; entrées from $46).
While Trainera is a bustling warren of rooms with waiters who’ve tended to the same clientele for decades, O’Pazo (pictured) is a more formal shrine to the sea with a spacious modern dining room and a Michelin star. The rice with carabineros is simply the best rice dish in the world (Calle de la Reina Mercedes 20; 553-2333; entrées from $30).
Photograph courtesy O'Pazo
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