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Two timeless standbys are just off the Plaza Mayor. Botín opened in 1725 and is still cooking the roast suckling pig and lamb for which it is justifiably famous. Despite a rap as a tourist haven, it remains a favorite haunt of locals, who also love the baby artichokes or green beans cooked with ham. Hemingway ate at Botín (and set the last scene of The Sun Also Rises here), and Goya once washed dishes (Calle de los Cuchilleros 17; 366-4217; entrées from $23).
Photograph courtesy Botín










