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Alkalde (pictured) manages to be both cozy and sophisticated, with a classic menu that never fails. Start with gambas (prawns) a la plancha or the divine artichokes in an odd—and oddly ethereal—sauce of baby clams, followed by the thick chuletón, or rib steak, that comes to the table on its own mini-grill and glistens with fat flakes of sal (Calle Jorge Juan 10; 576-3359; entrées from $32). At Julián de Tolosa, the succinct menu is all about the chuletón (with the bare minimum of accompaniments), but the high-ceilinged red-brick room is completely seductive and the wine list full of marvelous Riberas (Cava Baja 18; 365-8210; entrées from $25).
Photograph courtesy Alkalde
Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.
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