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The Mercado de San Miguel, the long-shuttered Beaux Arts covered market off the Plaza Mayor, reopened three years ago to packed crowds, and no wonder. Inside the wrought-iron building, stalls sell everything from oysters, caviar, and champagne, to olives filled with every conceivable stuffing, to gorgeous arrays of produce. You can take home a steak from the butcher, or he’ll cook it for you on the spot. At breakfast, there’s a run on churros and chocolate; in the evening, the wine bars offer mini-educations in fine Spanish wines.
Photograph by Lisa Limer










