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Any first-time visit to New Orleans—whether it's for Mardi Gras or not—can feel like an interesting exercise in the old bait-and-switch routine. This centuries-old city is filled with history, astounding architectural riches, and amazing culinary experiences, but there are also stretches of neon-lit cocktail bars, chain restaurants, and music clubs blaring out humdrum Motown covers in Louisiana drag. Nowhere is this more apparent than in New Orleans's historic French Quarter, where the tasteful and the tacky rub elbows like old friends. The good news is that with a little bit of foresight and a couple of solid strategies, it's possible to steer clear of the stuff you can find in your local mall and discover the true soul of this remarkable city. So grab a cooling Pimm's Cup cocktail, pull up a chair, and we'll show you how it's done down in New Orleans.
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