Un Piano nel Cielo, Praiano, Amalfi Coast
Tel: 39 089 813 1333
Concierge.com's insider take:
Just occasionally it's nice to have an alternative to the Amalfi Coast's mamma-in-the-kitchen trattorias and formal seafood restaurants. The Casa Angelina design hotel's restaurant falls into neither camp: It's unashamedly contemporary, bringing some of the pizzazz of the new dining scene of Rome or Milan to a region that sometimes uses tradition as an excuse for lack of originality. A cool white and cream dining room with well-spaced tables looks onto a view of startling beauty, with the bay of Positano and the Li Galli islets in the distance (for the full diorama, book one of the tables on the outside terrace). Chef Vincenzo Vanacore plays around winningly with Neapolitan classics, fusing two standards (paccheri in seafood sauce, and fish soup) into a single dish, or offering a Sushi Napoletano, in which parboiled spaghetti chopped into rice-size fragments is tossed in garlic, chile, and oil and served with raw tuna and olives. Maître Andrea Confessore is an excellent multilingual host and guide to the well-chosen wine list. But attention to detail is only to be expected in a place where the color of the napkin the waiter brings is chosen according to what you happen to be wearing.—Lee Marshall
Open daily 1 to 3, 7:30 to 11 pm.