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Yamazato, Amsterdam

Okura Hotel
333 Ferdinand Bolstraat
Netherlands 1072 LH
Tel: 31 20 678 8351's insider take:

Forget boutique sushi houses and overstuffed snowballs of designer maki—Yamazato comes by its Michelin star the old-fashioned way. Situated in the south-side's Okura Hotel (the favorite home-away-from-home of Japanese tourists and businessmen), Yamazato's dining room establishes its traditional values upfront, with long picture windows framed by rice-paper screens looking out on a tranquil Japanese garden. Don't even think of placing an à la carte order with your kimono-dressed waitress, as the kitchen clearly considers printed menus a disposable, Western invention. Executive chef Akira Oshima and his lineup of 25 Japanese cooks prepare multi-course kaiseki menus—the most lavish being a nine-course option for 95 euros—that present the freshest seafood in a fluid succession of elegant dishes. (Unagi, sitting beside a carved radish, never looked so pretty.) The result is a form of dinner theater as stylized as Kabuki.

Open daily for lunch noon to 2 pm, for dinner 6:00 to 9:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.