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Restaurant Greetje, Amsterdam

23–25 Peperstraat
Netherlands 1011 TJ
Tel: 31 20 779 7450's insider take:

The Dutch rediscovery of the Netherlands' bulging larder climaxes at this homey restaurant near the Montelbaanse Tower. The dark wood floors and wainscoting mimic the comforting cocoa patina of a brown bar, and the trendsetters (hungry for Mama's cooking) eating beside actual mothers makes for a nicely blended crowd. They're all here for the same reason: a gastronomic tour of backroads Holland, served up by culinary ethnographer René Loven, who has recovered the most esoteric dishes from every Dutch province. The meal may begin with Frisian sugar bread, a Limburgian farmer's pâté of veal, or a bowl of greens and roasted hazelnuts tossed with Zaanse mustard and thick Dutch yogurt, then might continue on to fillet of monkfish roasted and robed in North Sea lobster sauce, or Dutch goat cheese croquettes and potato-carrot purée. The big ode-to-the-lowlands finish: a selection of Dutch cheeses, served with rye bread and (why not?) apple syrup.

Open Tuesdays through Sundays 6 pm to 1 am.

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