Fyra, Amsterdam
Amsterdam
Netherlands 1017 TR
Tel: 31 20 428 3632
www.restaurantfyra.nl
Concierge.com's insider take:
This centrally located subterranean restaurant, just south of the Prinsengracht, simulates an old-school Dutch kitchen, with low-hanging pink lampshades and damask wallpaper. But the sleek black-leather banquettes and a local crowd of bohos and serious gourmets suggest that this homey refuge isn't going to settle for mere comfort food. Sweet grilled scallops over morel-stuffed brioche represent the kitchen's ambitious approach to upscale locavore cuisine. So does braised veal wearing a fat disk of foie gras. The molten chocolate dessert drizzled with passion fruit sauce makes for a flamboyant finish, although the reasonable prices (entrées hover around $27) bring things back to earth.—Raphael Kadushin
Open Wednesdays through Mondays 6 to 10 pm.