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Concierge.com

Varoulko, Athens

80 Piraeus Street
Hotel Eradanus
Gazi
Athens
Greece 10435
Tel: 30 210 522 8400
www.varoulko.gr/uk/varoulko.html
Concierge.com's insider take:

Seafood legend Lefteris Lazarou won the Michelin race, gaining the country's first star for Greek food—and rightly so, say the hordes clamoring for tables at this wood-floored, white-walled dining room (belonging to Hotel Eridanus) or a prized one on the terrace overlooking the Acropolis. Lazarou rises before dawn to source his psari (baked seafood dishes) and treats them in ways that veer into classical French territory without ever leaving Greece. Typical are cuttlefish risotto with caramelized garlic and bay leaf, and grouper with wild greens braised in egg-lemon sauce. Meat dishes are fewer, but just as amazing, such as his take on patsa, the workingman's tripe soup, served in a martini glass.

Opens Mondays through Saturdays at 8:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.