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Bistro Moncur, Sydney

Woollahra Hotel
116 Queen Street
Tel: 61 2 9363 2519's insider take:

Ask any stylish Sydneysider for their favorite neighborhood bistro, and chances are at least a few of them will grudgingly give up this name. Bistro Moncur is an antidote to the flashy, harborside marquee names: Tucked on a quiet, leafy side street opposite Sotheby's, this is the kind of place you'd make a Monday night tradition if you lived here. A recent makeover—a timber barrel-vaulted ceiling gives the impression of sitting in a chic aircraft hangar—has only enhanced the grown-up yet lively feel of the place. The food coming out of chef Damien Pignolet's kitchen is unfussy and well executed; representative dishes include house-marinated salmon, twice-cooked gruyère soufflé and homestyle "bangers and mash." The wine list is extremely well priced—there's an excellent pinot noir for under $30. Reservations are not accepted, so arrive before 7:30 or wait in the adjoining bar of the Woollahra Hotel, a well-heeled scene in itself.

Open Tuesdays though Sundays noon to 3 pm and 6 to 10:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.