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Restaurant Christian Etienne, Avignon

10 Rue de Mons
Tel: 33 4 90 86 16 50's insider take:

The eponymous chef of this restaurant—who left a career at the Ritz in Paris to return to his native turf and earn his Michelin star—specializes in a style of cooking he calls "régional inventif." There's an emphasis on fish and game, such as roast pigeon with a coffee-infused jus and a fondant of apples and shallots. The simple set menu is a good value but rarely as ambitious as the more expensive menus on offer. The restaurant's setting—rough-beamed ceilings and zebra-striped walls inside, plus a sunny terrace for summer dining—is downright historic: The 800-year-old structure just south of the papal palace served once as part of the Pope's court, and as the town hall in the 19th century.

Closed Sundays and Mondays.

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