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Ottenthal, Berlin

153 Kantstrasse
Germany 10623
Tel: 49 30 313 3162's insider take:

The space is intimate, but the flavors here are big. Cooking for only a limited number of diners—and only in the evenings—allows chef Arthur Schneller to get picky with all the details: He ships in produce (like blood sausage and pumpkinseed oil) from his hometown village of Ottenthal, and other ingredients, such as cheeses and meats, come from local organic farms. In the tiny kitchen, he cranks out his own noodles, rolls homemade flaky Apfelstrudel pastry, and pounds out a mean Wiener Schnitzel, the size of which laps the rim of an already oversize plate. Less traditional fare includes foie gras with a fig and rhubarb mousse, and homemade lamb sausage with truffled potatoes. A few dishes across the menu are spiced up with bärlauch—a sort of wild leek, native to Germany, that has a strong, garlicky flavor. The wine list includes some 250 vintages, representing 16 different Austrian wine regions. An added plus: Schneller's is practically the only good restaurant in central Charlottenburg that keeps its doors open Sunday night.

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