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Storch, Berlin

54 Wartburg Strasse
Germany 10823
Tel: 49 30 784 2059's insider take:

A cheery, high-ceilinged warehouse, Storch serves excellent Alsatian fare and is an anchor for its Schöneberg neighborhood, an area not known for its cuisine. In the early evening it's a family gathering spot, but it picks up sophistication as the night wears on. Diners are greeted with a discreet welcome and handshake from the red-faced owner, Volker Hauptvogel, who's also likely to check up on the progress of their dinner more than once (in English or French, as necessary). Once considered the quintessential Alsatian joint of Berlin, Storch has lost its lock on French-German cooking and recently stopped serving flammkuchen, the "Alsatian pizza" that is now all the rage elsewhere in town. The menu changes daily, with the only constant being the famous house choucroute; other selections are bound to be heavy on meat and strong herbs. Try the ox-calf fillet in a red-wine reduction, the epitome of solid French bourgeois cooking. Game makes an occasional appearance, such as sautéed quail fillet on a mâche salad. This dish is typical of what works here: solid German-friendly fare, prepared with a delicate flourish.

Closed Sundays.

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