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Jolastoky, Neguri

24 Avenida de los Chopos
Tel: 34 94 491 2031's insider take:

A bastion of highbrow, old-school gentility, Jolastoky occupies an elegant villa 15 minutes' drive from Bilbao. The surrounding community of Neguri is home to some of the region's wealthiest citizens (you'll see some grand houses on your way to the restaurant), and Jolastoky's several dining rooms are properly formal, with heavy swagged drapes, tufted chairs, and starched linens. Chef Sabin Arana Olaizola's family has run the restaurant since 1921, so they've had lots of time to perfect the menu of seasonal Basque classics, like chorizo with pochas (a tender local bean variety), stewed pigeon in wine sauce, and several excellent game meats in fall.

Closed Mondays. Lunch only, Sundays and Tuesdays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.