33 Via Larga
Tel: 39 051 601 5011
If you don't mind wearing last year's fashions, you can find Bruno Magli shoes (and bags, belts, and suede jackets) at a fraction of their boutique prices at this factory outlet in the eastern suburbs. About $78 should be enough to secure you a pair of classic Magli pumps; allow up to $125 for men's brogues.
6 Via dei Musei
Tel: 39 051 648 6587
This alarmingly cool concept store is Bologna's answer to Colette in Paris. On three floors of a historic palazzo in the heart of the museum district, L'Inde le Palais is as much a fashion gallery as a clothing store, with gossamer evening dresses by Amen, Zagliani croc totes, and Fornasetti Tema e Variazioni plates displayed like paintings at the Uffizi. There's a perfume department, a bookshop and music store, and a limited-edition streetwear niche. Cafè le Palais is the store's shabby-chic grazing and imbibing annex, while just outside the city limits on the Via Emilia, L'Inde Loft is the warehouselike offshoot for home design items, where you can feast your eyes (and lighten your wallet) on store-brand linen and silk fabrics, vintage '60s rugs, antique chandeliers, and Vico Magistretti chairsplus a smattering of clothes and accessories.
Every day is market day in Bologna. Locals and tourists haggle for fresh fruits and veggies, spiffy leather handbags, and antique furniture at these city-center street fairs. (Watch your wallet, though: Pickpockets have been known to shop there, too.) The largest and oldestit dates back to the 13th centuryis La Piazzola, a great place to pick up shoes, crafts, fabrics, and a huge selection of vintage clothes (Piazza VIII Agosto, every Friday and Saturday). On Thursdays, the same piazza is occupied by the Mercato del Collezionismo (Collectors' Market), where you can find everything from antique furniture to Kinder Egg toy collectables. For seafood and fresh fruit and vegetables, don't miss the Mercato di Mezzo (Via Pescherie Vecchie) and Mercato delle Erbe (Via Ugo Bassi) in the heart of the centro storico. There are nine regular markets and various seasonal markets selling holiday sweets and Christmas decorations. Check the tourism office's Web site for the entire updated schedule (iat.comune.bologna.it).
1 Via Caprarie
Tel: 051 234 726
If you're food shopping, don't miss Tamburini, a gourmet deli and shrine to Bologna's full-on local cuisine. This spot has pretty much all the Italian salumi you could possibly want, from humble mortadella to prized culatello di Zibello. There are cheeses, too (including huge wheels of Parmesan); moist, aromatic torta di riso cake; and a vast selection of fine wines. At the back of the shop, a self-service lunchtime bistro called VeloCibo occupies the former salumeria workshop, where pigs were transformed into tasty treatsif you glance up, you can still see the butchers' hooks on their iron rails.