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Bordeaux Restaurants

Café du Musée
Musée d'Art Contemporain
7 Rue Ferrère
Tel: 33 5 56 44 71 61

Designed by Andrée Putman and hung with photographs by Richard Long, the rooftop restaurant at the Contemporary Art Museum is a fashionable lunchtime haunt with a good-value menu. The menu changes four times a year, but you might find foie gras terrine scented with vanilla, or ceviche of daurade (sea bream) marinated in ginger.

Closed Mondays.

Café Le Dijeaux
14 ter Place Gambetta
Tel: 33 5 56 81 90 65

Perfect for breakfast or a coffee and canelé—the quintessential Bordelaise cake (crisp caramel on the outside, soft vanilla-infused batter on the inside). Buy one at the specialist baker Baillardran, next door on Rue Porte Dijeaux, and unwrap it here with a café au lait.

Café Regent
46 Place Gambetta
Tel: 33 5 56 44 16 20

With its Belle Époque brise-soleil, red awnings, and wide terrace, the Regent looks like a French café ordered straight from central casting. This is the see-and-be-seen spot in Bordeaux. The salmon tartare with olive oil and Basque chile pepper and foie gras cooked in Sauterne are both highly recommended.

Open 12–4 and 10:20–11:30 daily.

Philippe Chez Dubern
42 et 44 Allées de Tourny
Tel: 33 5 56 79 07 70

Something of a Bordeaux institution for fresh fish and shellfish, this restaurant once occupied a warren of rooms cluttered with fishing objets, but moved, in 2006, to a new address in the heart of town with enough space for a terrace, a brasserie, and a restaurant. Chef Philippe Téchoire, the son of a fisherman, trained at the Cordon Bleu, and his focus is naturally on outstanding fresh fish and produce, plainly and beautifully presented in such dishes as the seafood platter, turbot with fresh grapes and mushrooms or grilled in a salt crust, and brochette de coquilles Saint-Jacques (scallop shish kebabs—which sounds so much more refined in French).

Dinner only, closed Sundays.

Vieux Bordeaux
27 Rue Buhan
Tel: 33 5 56 52 94 36

In the heart of the old city, Nicole and Michel Bordage successfully mix new and old concepts in their cooking: foie gras de canard sliced razor-thin and doused in coffee sauce, roasted catfish on a tapenade of crushed black olives, and a marble cake of wild mushrooms. The three dining rooms have traditional touches, such as stone walls and Baroque mirrors. Prices are surprisingly moderate, and the set lunch menu is a steal.

Closed Mondays and Sundays, most of August, and two weeks in February.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.