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Philippe Chez Dubern, Bordeaux

42 et 44 Allées de Tourny
Tel: 33 5 56 79 07 70's insider take:

Something of a Bordeaux institution for fresh fish and shellfish, this restaurant once occupied a warren of rooms cluttered with fishing objets, but moved, in 2006, to a new address in the heart of town with enough space for a terrace, a brasserie, and a restaurant. Chef Philippe Téchoire, the son of a fisherman, trained at the Cordon Bleu, and his focus is naturally on outstanding fresh fish and produce, plainly and beautifully presented in such dishes as the seafood platter, turbot with fresh grapes and mushrooms or grilled in a salt crust, and brochette de coquilles Saint-Jacques (scallop shish kebabs—which sounds so much more refined in French).

Dinner only, closed Sundays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.