D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) is a quality assurance label of sorts for Italian wines, and this namesake neo-rustic enoteca in Williamsburg takes similar care in choosing varietal blends that make the grade. Sardinia is a well-represented region on the list—the blackberry-nosed Perdera Monica di Sardegna and the Sella e Mosca are both pleasant quaffs. Better still, many wines are sold by the marzianetto (tasting shot), so you can attend to gaps in your knowledge of Sardinian vintages quickly. Rough-hewn woodblock tables and plank floors strike a casual tone, and the bar area becomes home to a lively, air-kissing scene as the evening progresses. There's a small plate selection to absorb the sulfites—crostini with pâté and goat cheese, for example, or a tagliere spread of Italian meats and cheeses—all delivered with a charming "Salute!"

Open Monday through Thursday 6 pm to midnight; Friday and Saturday 6 pm to 1 am.

It's probably best that the door here isn't clearly marked, or this watering hole on a happening stretch of Grand Street would undoubtedly be overrun. (Hint: look for the word "bar" in tiny red letters outside a discreet metal entryway). The interior alone is worth a peek, having already found its way into coffee-table books on emerging New York City architecture. There's rich-hued woodwork with clean, Scandinavian lines and an elevated, glass-encased smoking mezzanine reached via a loft like stairwell. LL isn't particularly known for signature cocktails (it's something of an unspoken rule not to order cosmos in this part of Brooklyn anyway), but Brooklyn Lager and Hoegaarden are poured by reasonably cheerful bartenders whose iPod selection could very well be the topic of conversation on blogs the next day.

Open daily from 6 pm to 4 am.