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Borkonyha, Budapest

Budapest, Hungary, Europe: the dining room inside, the terrace at Borkonyha (
3 Sas Utca
Hungary 1051
Tel: 36 1 266 0835's insider take:

Close to St. Stephen's Basilica, Borkonyha ("wine kitchen") opened in December 2010 to rave reviews that highlighted its strong Hungarian wine list, including about 200 hard-to-find bottles and around 40 varieties by the glass. But even beyond the bor, Borkonyha deserves attention for its konyha's inventive take on modern Hungarian cuisine—updated homegrown fare such as suckling pig carpaccio and Mangalica pork loin with porcini and crispy rosemary potatoes grown in Somogy County, south of scenic Lake Balaton. While most restaurants operating at this culinary level go all-out with ultraformal old-world service, Borkonyha's staff remains remarkably relaxed yet attentive and professional. Their manner suits the dressed-down decor: dark tile floors and matching dark tables with lighter-colored walls tastefully peppered with antique photographs and a few chalkboards listing the specials. High points: Mangalica anything, the dill-scented rice milk with dill sorbet for dessert, and Jószef Bock's 2007 Syrah, a charismatic local take on a hearty red.—Evan Rail

Open Mondays through Saturdays noon to midnight.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.