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Cabaña Las Lilas, Buenos Aires

516 Alicia Moreau de Justo
Puerto Madero
Buenos Aires
Argentina 1107
Tel: 54 11 4313 1336's insider take:

The glamorous subjects of the headshots lining the walls of Cabaña Las Lilas aren't movie stars or Rat Packers—they're cows. To be precise, they're grand-champion Herefords from the storied Las Lilas ranch. This ranch breeds Argentina's finest beef cattle, raised on pampas grass, and it opened this handsome steakhouse in the hip dockside neighborhood of Puerto Madero in 1995 to show off its goods. As a steakhouse, it should be ranked among the world's greatest. At brawny tables cut from trunks of Brazilian ipé trees, well-heeled porteños (B.A. natives) and jet-setters congregate over cell-phone lunches and late-night dinners for what's perhaps the top cow in town. Chances are you'll forget all about the sparkling waterfront view as soon as a platter of perfectly grilled mollejas de corazón (sweetbreads) hits the table, followed by your selection from 13 different cuts of beef. The "baby beef"—portioned at an adult 500 or 800 grams (that is, about 18 or 28 ounces), depending on your commitment to gluttony—comes ringed with rich, unapologetic fat. After this carnivorous juggernaut, you might want only a toothpick for dessert. But go on, live a little: You know you want that custardy crema catalana.

Open daily 12:30 pm to 12:30 am.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.