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Jangada, Buenos Aires

1670 Bonpland
Palermo Hollywood
Buenos Aires
Tel: 54 11 4773 0411's insider take:

Scour the menus of even the best B.A. restaurants, and you'll be lucky to find more than a couple of fish dishes. Although the fertile waters of the southern Atlantic lap at Argentina's eastern shore, locals disdain dealing with scales and bones. Some surprise, then, that local chef Ricardo Annichini has achieved such a hit with Jangada, which specializes in line-caught river fish from the Río Paraná. Most species have yet to be named in English or Spanish, so be prepared to get your tongue around orders for tararira, boga, and surubí, fine-tasting fish named by the Guaraní tribes that once inhabited the river's upper reaches. The standout plate is the grilled pacú: Presented on a wooden plank, it's sufficient for two. Unique, too, are Jangada's empanadas of surubí. The patient staff know their business well: On a recent visit, even the waitress recounted tales from her weekends spent hooking the Paraná's finest.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 8:30 pm to 1 am, Sundays noon to 4 pm and 8:30 pm to 1 am.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.