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El Baqueano, Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires Province, Argentina, Central + South America
495 Chile
San Telmo
Buenos Aires
Argentina 1098
Tel: 54 11 4342 0802's insider take:

Bored by local diners' obsession with beef and intrigued by the idea of applying haute-cuisine technique to Argentina's lesser-known native critters, chef Fernando Rivarola turned to the ostrich-like rhea, the viscacha (a cousin of the chinchilla), the yacaré caiman, and the llama, producing a seven-course tasting menu that runs from llama carpaccio and chinchilla wraps to caiman kebab and fruit-stuffed rhea rump. Also in the mix are a handful of nonnative species such as rabbit, hare, wild boar, venison, partridge, and quail that thrive in Argentina. Newer dishes include the pacú and other fish from the Paraná River, many of which have yet to be named in English or Spanish, obliging diners to get their tongues around Guarani indigenous words like tararira, boga, and surubí.—Colin Barraclough

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 7 pm to midnight.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.