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Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires

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Destinations: 
Argentina,
Buenos Aires,
Buenos Aires Province,
Central + South America

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ITEMS

Nightlife

La Biela, Argentina

600 Quintana, Recoleta
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Tel: 54 11 4804 0449
Website: www.labiela.com

This airy old-school café opposite the Recoleta Cemetery (be sure to check out the giant gomero, or rubber tree, out front) is a bona fide Buenos Aires classic. The city even designated La Biela—whose name refers to the connecting rod in an auto engine and whose walls are plastered with racing memorabilia—an official cultural landmark. Although it's mostly known as a place to spot local TV stars, grab a toasted ham-and-cheese sandwich, or peruse the paper over a café con leche, La Biela stays open until three in the morning, serving a variety of beer and spirits.

Nightlife

El Viejo Almacèn, Argentina

300 Independencia, San Telmo
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Tel: 54 11 4307 6689
Website: www.viejo-almacen.com.ar

Housed in a former San Telmo general store dating back to 1798, El Viejo Almacén offers a vibrant example of how good—and surprisingly uncheesy—a full-on, traditional tango show can be. The venue was launched in the late '60s by the tango artist Edmundo Rivero, who has lovingly re-created the mood of an old-time milonga with a two-hour revue propelled by a classic orquesta (a tango ensemble that leans heavily on the bandoneón, or button accordian), four sets of bailarines (dancers) and a retinue of singers. The saucy spectacular is served up with a dinner that runs in the direction of empanadas, pasta, and steak.

Shop

Tramando, Argentina

1973 Rodríguez Peña, Barrio Norte
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Tel: 54 11 4816 9422
Website: www.tramando.com

Once partnered with designer Jessica Trosman, Martín Churba went on to make his name manufacturing iconoclastic plastic- and paint-splattered textile weaves, which he uses to create award-winning women's clothes, accessories, and housewares.

Open Mondays through Fridays 10:30 am to 8:30 pm.

Shop

Mishka, Argentina

4673 El Salvador, Palermo Viejo
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Tel: 54 11 4833 6566

Cult favorite Mishka sells self-styled "shoes for princesses." The fanciful, handsomely made designs focus on unusual heel shapes, striking textures, and innovative materials. Each season, designer Marcelo Canton uses a different theme or material inspiration—one recent season featured structured, ladylike bags and shoes made of tightly braided multicolored leather. The boots, flats, and heels on display at both shops tend to run narrow and trend toward wearable art. If you see a style you like, grab it: Mishka is currently available only in Buenos Aires and London.

Shop

Comme Il Faut, Argentina

1239 Arenales, Suite 3M, Recoleta
Buenos Aires 1061, Argentina
Tel: 54 11 4815 5690
Website: www.commeilfaut.com.ar

"So many shoes, so little time," says the cutesy woolen sign inside this Recoleta den dedicated exclusively to tango shoes. There's nothing cutesy about the footwear created by Alicia Muñiz and partner Raquel Coltrinari, however: Each sexy creation sports three-inch heels, velvet edging, or uppers of filmy silk and patterned lamé. Clients perch on a leopard-skin sofa or a Louis XV-style chaise longue, basking under rose-tinted spotlights, while Muñiz and Coltrinari bring in dozens of their designs, each more vibrant and sensual than the last. Within minutes, the floor is littered with mountains of suede, silk and leather, lace tassels, and blood-red ribbons—so attractive that most clients leave with several pairs.

Open Mondays through Fridays 11 am to 7 pm, Saturdays 11 am to 3 pm.

Eating

La Cabaña, Argentina

380 Alicia Moreau de Justo, Puerto Madero
Buenos Aires C1107AAH, Argentina
Tel: 54 11 4314 3710
Website: www.lacabana.com.ar

The twin stuffed cows that flank the entryway are a vivid foreshadowing of what's to come at La Cabaña. This luxury steakhouse has had an eventful recent past, including a seven-year hiatus in the 1990s, a lengthy stint under the control of Orient-Express Hotels, and most lately a wholesale move from its original Recoleta location to Puerto Madero, the citys renovated docklands. At the original Cabaña, which opened in 1935, you might have bumped into Errol Flynn, Sophia Loren, or Evita, though the resuscitated version attracts more corporate-card carriers and diplomats than movie stars. Still, all are captivated by the showy open parrilla manned by technicians in gaucho garb (including floppy pantaloons known as bombachas), walls covered with polo memorabilia, and an appropriately macho brown-leather menu brimming with options from bife de chorizo (similar to porterhouse) to asado de tira (beef ribs). Adventurous eaters will adore the assorted platter of entrails, which arrives sizzling with enough sweetbreads, kidneys, chorizos, and morcilla (blood sausage) to satisfy a table full of hungry carnivores. Don't forget to touch the cows' tails on your way out, for good luck.—Updated by Colin Barraclough

Open daily noon to 1 am.

Eating

Jangada, Argentina

1670 Bonpland, Palermo Hollywood
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Tel: 54 11 4773 0411
Website: www.restaurantejangada.com

Scour the menus of even the best B.A. restaurants, and you'll be lucky to find more than a couple of fish dishes. Although the fertile waters of the southern Atlantic lap at Argentina's eastern shore, locals disdain dealing with scales and bones. Some surprise, then, that local chef Ricardo Annichini has achieved such a hit with Jangada, which specializes in line-caught river fish from the Río Paraná. Most species have yet to be named in English or Spanish, so be prepared to get your tongue around orders for tararira, boga, and surubí, fine-tasting fish named by the Guaraní tribes that once inhabited the river's upper reaches. The standout plate is the grilled pacú: Presented on a wooden plank, it's sufficient for two. Unique, too, are Jangada's empanadas of surubí. The patient staff know their business well: On a recent visit, even the waitress recounted tales from her weekends spent hooking the Paraná's finest.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 8:30 pm to 1 am, Sundays noon to 4 pm and 8:30 pm to 1 am.

Eating

Café Tortoni, Argentina

825 Avenida de Mayo, El Centro
Buenos Aires 1084, Argentina
Tel: 54 11 4342 4328
Website: www.cafetortoni.com.ar

If there's a spiritual, intellectual, and historical epicenter to Buenos Aires, this is it. The Belle Époque Café Tortoni, on the bustling Avenida de Mayo, is the oldest (dating to 1858) and most celebrated café in town. It also happens to brew a fine cortado, the traditional shot of espresso cut with a smidgeon of milk, which makes an ideal accompaniment to the Argentine breakfast staple, the medialuna (like a croissant). The lengthy menu also includes churros with chocolate, sandwiches, and cocktails, including Tortoni's signature potation of sherry and champagne. If after all that you're too full to order more food, there's nightly tango in the Sala Alfonsina, all-day pool-hustling in the well-appointed billiard parlor, and wireless Internet access for the laptop-toting. Don't be surprised if you run into Jorge Luis Borges. The famed Argentine writer may have passed on in 1986, but his wax effigy is still hanging out at Tortoni every day, sharing a corner table with wax renditions of tango great Carlos Gardel and poet Alfonsina Storni.

Bar Uriarte

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.