Ferme-Auberge de Lavaux, Châtenay-Lavaux
Tel: 33 3 85 28 08 48
Concierge.com's insider take:
Travelers looking for family-style hospitality at bargain prices and wholesome French country food will be delighted by this B&B on a working farm in southern Burgundy. With its tiled roof, heavy timbers, and imposing tower, you'd never guess that this stone farmhouse was completed in 1992. The guest rooms, decorated with a mix of contemporary and vintage furniture, aren't fancy, but they all have private bathrooms, and at $70 per night—including a breakfast of fresh bread and local honeys and jams—they're a great value. The best and biggest room is in the tower; four others are tucked under the roof of a two-story wooden loggia that faces the auberge. In the restaurant, homegrown produce and meats from local farms make for a memorable meal. Dinner might include the best oven-roasted chicken you've ever had, chèvre topped with fresh cream or honey, apple or apricot tarts, and, if you preorder a week in advance, exquisite gâteau de foies de volaillesa chicken-liver paté that's as thick and chunky as meatloaf (prix fixe options start at $20; à la carte is about $40 per person). Since the stone-walled dining room's communal tables are often packed with both locals and vacationers, reserve at least a week in advance—and request a table on the terrace to avoid the noise. Finding the Ferme-Auberge de Lavaux can be a challenge (drive east from La Clayette about six miles on highway D987, then one mile north on D300), but once you pull up to the landscaped grounds, which include a fishing pond surrounded by weeping willows, you'll see why this rural idyll is worth seeking out.—David Downie
Inn open spring through mid-November; restaurant open by reservation only from noon for lunch and from 7 pm for dinner.