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Stéphane Derbord, Dijon

Bourgogne, France, Europe: this 12-table restaurant in Dijon, France, chef Stéphane Derbord turns seasonal Burgundian ingredients into works
10 Place Wilson
France 21000
33 3 80 67 74 64's insider take:

At this 12-table restaurant with faintly Asian decor in central Dijon, star chef Stéphane Derbord takes seasonal Burgundian ingredients and transforms them into works of culinary art. Calf's trotter wrapped in phyllo dough is an ethereal preparation; escargots à la nage is scented with cardamom. In season, you'll find pheasant torte with Burgundy truffles, or venison baked into a succulent shepherd's pie. Derbord is equally famous for his wine cellar, containing about 800 different bottlings that range from inexpensive organic Côtes d'Auxerre to $5,000 giants from Domaine de la Romanée Conti. A primarily business clientele settles into the upholstered armchairs during weekday lunch hours; join them and you can sample Derbord's $34 prix fixe. At dinnertime, these patrons are replaced by romantic couples willing to splurge upward of $80 per person for a prix fixe or $115 à la carte.—David Downie

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays noon to 1:45 pm and 7:30 to 9:15 pm; closed one week in February and two weeks in early August.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.