Loiseau des Vignes, Beaune
Tel: 33 3 80 22 12 06
Concierge.com's insider take:
Located on the ground floor of Beaune's Hôtel du Cep, Loiseau des Vignes is an homage to the late chef Bernard Loiseau run by his widow, Dominique. (Loiseau is perhaps best remembered for taking his own life in 2003 after hearing rumors—false ones—that his La Côte d'Or restaurant in Saulieu was about to lose its third Michelin star.) Walls of glistening lacquer and stuccoed stone, thick wooden timbers, modern tableware, and a gold-and-red color scheme lend it the look of a neo-bistro housed in a château—while the studiously casual atmosphere and polished, sometimes obsequious service are in keeping with Loiseau's restaurants in Saulieu and Paris. Many of chef Gilles Bérard's dishes, such as pâté en croute façon Alexandre Dumaine (a pâté of veal, pork, and foie gras in a pastry crust) and pike-perch dumplings, skillfully evoke Loiseau's classic cuisine. Others are excellent originals—sautéed sea bass fillet with a frothy shellfish emulsion and thick veal steak with sage, for example. You'll rarely find a better selection of cheeses, and you won't regret saving room for desserts such as a Grand Marnier soufflé. The seasonal lunch prix fixes (starting at $30) are an excellent value, and there are about 70 wines by the glass priced from $3 to $50.—David Downie
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays noon to 1:30 pm and 7 to 9:30 pm.