Les Deux Ponts, Pierre-Perthuis
Tel: 33 3 86 32 31 31
Concierge.com's insider take:
In tiny Pierre-Perthuis, a town four miles south of Vézelay that's famed for a stone arch carved by the Cure River, chef Philippe Bariteau and his wife Marianne transformed an old roadside property into this hip restaurant with a handful of tasteful guest rooms ($80 per night). Bariteau trained with marquee chefs, but his refinements and aestheticism don't get in the way of authentic regional flavors. The seasonal menus ($40 prix fixe; about $70 à la carte) might include house-made pork paté with wild mushrooms, creamy crayfish tails and baby heirloom vegetables, or slow-roasted filet mignon of pork. And save room: Bariteau's signature strawberry millefeuille is unmissable. The reasonably priced wine list includes a number of labels from top local winemakers. Fine white china, quality silverware, starched linens, and candles add a touch of romance to the big, sunny, dining room, which is housed in a former stable. When the weather's cool, a fire roars in the lounge; in summer, reserve a table on the front terrace. If you stay the night in one of the Spartan but squeaky-clean rooms upstairs, ask for one that has a peekaboo view of Vézelay.—David Downie
Hotel open daily from late February through early December. Restaurant open noon to 2 pm and 7 to 9 pm, daily in summer, in late February, and at Eastertide, Thursdays through Mondays the rest of the year.