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Les Deux Ponts, Pierre-Perthuis

France 89450
Tel: 33 3 86 32 31 31's insider take:

In tiny Pierre-Perthuis, a town four miles south of Vézelay that's famed for a stone arch carved by the Cure River, chef Philippe Bariteau and his wife Marianne transformed an old roadside property into this hip restaurant with a handful of tasteful guest rooms ($80 per night). Bariteau trained with marquee chefs, but his refinements and aestheticism don't get in the way of authentic regional flavors. The seasonal menus ($40 prix fixe; about $70 à la carte) might include house-made pork paté with wild mushrooms, creamy crayfish tails and baby heirloom vegetables, or slow-roasted filet mignon of pork. And save room: Bariteau's signature strawberry millefeuille is unmissable. The reasonably priced wine list includes a number of labels from top local winemakers. Fine white china, quality silverware, starched linens, and candles add a touch of romance to the big, sunny, dining room, which is housed in a former stable. When the weather's cool, a fire roars in the lounge; in summer, reserve a table on the front terrace. If you stay the night in one of the Spartan but squeaky-clean rooms upstairs, ask for one that has a peekaboo view of Vézelay.—David Downie

Hotel open daily from late February through early December. Restaurant open noon to 2 pm and 7 to 9 pm, daily in summer, in late February, and at Eastertide, Thursdays through Mondays the rest of the year.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.