Jean-Luc Barnabet, Auxerre
Tel: 33 3 86 51 68 88
Concierge.com's insider take:
Michelin-starred chef Jean-Luc Barnabet is Burgundy's truffle king. Between October and late December, earthy, sweet Tuber uncinatum (Burgundy truffles) are the exquisite highlight of Barnabet's haute French menu. The restaurant occupies a landmark town house with conservative yet chic dining rooms (white walls, antique buffets, upholstered armchairs, linen-draped service tables) and a garden terrace in the most appealing part of historic Auxerre. Fricasseed snails, roasted veal sweetbreads, and slow-simmered heirloom pork are also available seasonally, but if you're here for the truffles, sign up for a "discovery day" that starts with a truffle hunt in the woods (complete with hounds) and winds up back at the restaurant with truffle-and-wine tastings and a lunch of truffled scallops, poultry, and cheese ($140 to $180, truffle hunt and lunch; $42, truffle hunt only; prix fixe menus start at about $30; à la carte around $140 per person).—David Downie
Open Wednesdays through Saturdays 12:30 to 2 pm and 7 to 9:30 pm, Sundays 12:30 to 2 pm, and Tuesdays 7 to 9:30 pm, mid-January through late December. Truffle discovery trips, October through late December.