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L'Auberge des Gourmets, Le Villars

Place de l'Église
Le Villars
France 71700
Tel: 33 3 85 32 58 80's insider take:

Don't be fooled by this auberge's studiously rustic vibe (old ceiling timbers, caned chairs, red tablecloths on wooden tables), location on the main square of an unremarkable town, or reasonable prices (prix fixes, $30 to $60; about $45 per person à la carte). Chef Daniel Rogié is a consummate pro who ran the kitchens of Le Rempart in nearby Tournus when it had a Michelin star. The market-based menu includes everything from snails and local ham to Atlantic fish, precisely cooked in regional style and plated in an artful but blessedly unfussy manner. Local regulars and migratory epicures hang out in the restaurant's clubby bar area, making it a good place to pick up tips on regional wines and the best seasonal dishes.—David Downie

Open Mondays and Thursdays through Saturdays noon to 1:45 pm and 7 to 9:30 pm, Sundays and Tuesdays noon to 1:45 pm. Closed Christmas through New Year's, other holidays, several weeks in January, and one week in June.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.