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Animal, Los Angeles, California

California, United States, North America: The dining room at Animal in Los Angeles, California
435 N. Fairfax Avenue
Los Angeles , California
Tel: 323 782 9225's insider take:

This unassuming little spot, nestled between scruffy delis and bagel bakeries in the heart of L.A.'s kosher district, is full of pleasant surprises. For starters, there's the restaurant's all-out reverence for pork—think buttery braised pork shoulder or balsamic-glazed ribs—which even extends to a delicious chocolate crunch dessert topped off with crumbled bacon. Then there's the fact that this no-frills spot, with its wooden tables and apron-wearing bartender, just might be one of the few restaurants in L.A. where you'll find top-rate food served without a hint of attitude or fuss. Adventurous, delicious dishes include mustard-crusted sweetbreads; braised rabbit served on beans, carrots, and fennel; and poutine (french fries smothered in oxtail gravy and Vermont cheddar). Thanks to sommelier Erik Kelley, the wine selection is well edited and reasonably priced. But you're welcome to bring your own for a small corkage fee.

Open Sundays through Thursdays 6 to 11 pm, Fridays and Saturdays 6 pm to 2 am.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.