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Labná, Cancún

Av. Margaritas 29
El Centro
Tel: 52 998 892 3056's insider take:

The Pezzotti family has long wooed diners off the strip of the Zona Hotelera and into Cancún's earthier downtown area. Their romantic, stylish La Habichuela restaurant was the first venture (it's next door and still worth a visit); now, Labná takes Yucatecan cuisine to new heights. Chef Carlos Hannon whips up papadzules (hard-boiled eggs wrapped in thick corn tortillas and topped with pumpkin sauce) and salbutes (small fried tortillas topped with shredded turkey or egg and marinated red onion) as appetizers. The culinary adventure continues with entrées like cochinita pibil (tender pork chunks marinated in achiote and sour orange) or lobster flambéed with the honey-anise liqueur called Xtabentun. Unlike most of Cancún's chefs, Hannon doesn't tame the seasonings for tourist palates. Beware of the habanero chile salsa, however, unless you've a cast-iron tongue.

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