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Art Phong Lan, Hue

11 Hung Vuong Street
Tel: 84 5 484 9229's insider take:

Busy Hung Vuong Street, south of the Perfume River, has a number of souvenir shops selling clothing, silken paintings, and "poem hats,'' conical Hue headgear with scenes of temples and forests painted under the brim. You have to wind your way through that kitsch to reach Phan Van Thang's hole-in-the-wall Art Phong Lan, which specializes in antique textiles. Since 1991, Phan has scoured the countryside for nghi truong lien theu, exquisitely embroidered silk or cotton pictures that once graced the ancestor altars or walls of Nguyen dynasty mandarins and commoners alike. Hundreds of his 1,000-piece collection are for sale.

Open daily 9 to 11 am and 3 to 9:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.