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Wang Bao He, Shanghai

603 Fuzhou Lu by Zhejiang Lu
China 200001
Tel: 86 21 6322 3673's insider take:

This venerable restaurant in the heart of the city near People's Square has been open since 1744 and is renowned for its hairy crabs, a regional delicacy available only during the cool autumn months. Local lore states that the sweetest crabs hail from the dark depths of nearby Yangcheng Lake; if they're in season, the tender flesh—as well as the orange roe or the sticky gray sperm—will be featured in dumplings, stir-fries, and other dishes in multicourse banquets. Of course, all this freshwater crabmeat comes with a rather, er, hairy price (starting at $60 per person, depending on the season) that some might find slightly incongruous with the fluorescent lighting and brisk service.

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