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Luchin, Chiavari

51 Via Bighetti
Italy 16043
Tel: 39 01 8530 1063's insider take:

When you've had your fill of Portofino's yachty elitism, head for the historic town of Chiavari, around 20 minutes away by train. Chiavari rivals Bologna as Italy's arcade town: Most of the lanes in the centro storico are lined with ancient porticoes, and underneath one of them you'll find this buzzing canteen of a place, which has been going strong since 1907. Luchin's specialty is farinata: Liguria's classic chickpea-flour bake, a sort of wheatless pizza (it looks a bit like a burnt coconut pie). Grab a seat at one of the communal tables and watch the farinata being cooked in the huge wood-fired oven. Other local dishes on the menu include burrida di seppie (a filling cuttlefish and potato stew) and baccalà al forno (salt cod baked with tomatoes). Service is unrefined but friendly, and there's a surprisingly good wine selection. Luchin doesn't generally take bookings, but the turnover of tables is rapid.

Open Mondays through Saturdays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.