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Trattoria Cavour, Levanto

1 Piazza Cavour
Italy 19015
Tel: 39 01 8780 8497's insider take:

In a corner of Levanto's main square, a couple of blocks back from the sea, this local institution is always full of regulars. Angle for an alfresco table on the veranda, which functions year-round (in winter, overhead braziers take the edge off the chill). Best advice is to follow the suggestions of the owner's son Matteo, whose surliness is only skin-deep. The day's offerings might include an antipasto of salted anchovies with roast yellow peppers, or a primo of taglierini neri (thin pasta ribbons dyed black with squid ink) in seafood sauce. In autumn, don't miss the scaloppina (veal cutlet) with mushrooms; the mixed fish grill (for a minimum of two) is another flagship dish. The house white wine is excellent, but there are plenty of other options. Wrap up with a refreshing lemon sorbet. If you're coming for dinner be aware that the kitchen starts to wind down around 9:30 pm.

Open Tuesdays through Sundays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.