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L'Ane Rouge, Nice

7 Quai des 2 Emmanuel
France 06300
Tel: 33 4 93 89 49 63's insider take:

There is a sense of faded glory at L'Ane Rouge (Red Donkey), with its thick carpets over uneven floors and plastic chairs on the terrace. But all is forgiven once you taste the food. The bouillabaisse, at more than $100 per head, is still legendary for the intensity of its broth and the extraordinary freshness of its seafood (the dish must be ordered at least 24 hours in advance). Somewhat limited tasting menus are available (priced from $37 to $110), but ordering à la carte lets you try delicate portions of fatty tuna with melon, zucchini flower wrapped around squid and langoustine, and a lobster and green-bean salad that astonishes with its freshness and sweetness. Main-course fish dishes—especially a filet of John Dory in olives and saffron, and sea bass tournedos—are perfectly light and flaky. Service is a bit slow, but with the view looking out on the old port, with the moon rising over the town, you won't mind lingering.

Open Thursdays through Tuesdays at 7 pm. Closed February.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.