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Concierge.com

Le Safari, Nice

1 Cours Saleya
Nice
France 06300
Tel: 33 49 380 1844
www.restaurantsafari.fr
Concierge.com's insider take:

A three-star chef introduced me to the pizza at Le Safari, on the lively Cours Saleya in Nice. Well, Franck Cerutti wasn't a three-star chef yet; he was the proprietor of a wonderful little place called Don Camillo, around the corner from the Cours, and I'd made arrangements to interview him for a story. He suggested Le Safari, and as we settled in on the terrace, amidst what seemed like the whole stylish, raffish population of the neighborhood, and I started to order the Niçoise-style stuffed vegetables, he shook his head and said, "Get the pizza." Not surprisingly, he knew what he was talking about. I chose one with anchovies and Niçoise olives, and from the little wood-burning oven just inside the door came what I would consider a perfect pie, a paradigm: The crust was thin, with irregular blisters and blackened spots, and as flavorful as good country bread; the tomato sauce was spiked with Provençal herbs; the cheese was sour-salty Cantal; the anchovies and olives were top quality. I was in pizza heaven. Cerutti has now long since been the chef de cuisine at Alain Ducasse's three-star Le Louis XV in Monaco, but I'll bet that he—like me—still stops by for pizza every time he's in town.—Colman Andrews, first published on Gourmet.com

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.