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Allegro, Prague

2a/1098 Veleslavínova
Czech Republic 11000
Tel: 420 221 426 880's insider take:

Sorry, Moscow: The first Michelin star in all of post-Communist Europe was awarded to this restaurant inside Prague's Four Seasons hotel in early 2008. Chef Andrea Accordi's take on contemporary Italian and Continental cuisine occasionally reveals a pronounced Central European influence: Taleggio cheese is served with fragrant elder-blossom foam and the trio of foie gras includes a pan-fried version served with Czech black beer. Accordi also takes advantage of the finest ingredients from around Europe, such as Alba truffles, Challans ducks, foie gras from the Périgord, and Manni olive oil, the world's most expensive. The extensive, predominantly Italian wine list appeals to big spenders, listing Super-Tuscans separately from mere Tuscans. Even the bread service is remarkable: a big basket of fluffy focaccia, crisp grissini, sliced pumpkin-seed rye, rich raisin-walnut, and on and on. The ho-hum interior with wood-paneled walls is straight out of a country club, but there's a postcard view of Prague Castle from the terrace.

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