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Formel B, Copenhagen

Vesterbrogade 182
Denmark 1800
Tel: 45 33 25 10 66's insider take:

This young restaurant and its equally young chefs—Rune Jochumsen and Kristian Møller—snatched up a Michelin star surprisingly fast in 2004. The subterranean stone dining room in Frederiksborg resembles a mausoleum and the adamantly stiff kitchen want to put the "a" back into Formel. Finding their passion in restrained, French-accented classicism and the most aristocratic Danish ingredients, Jochumsen and Møller may jump from langoustines with crunchy baby vegetables to a French pigeon breast anointed with foie gras and black truffles. For the blow-the-pension six-course menu, they seem determined to slip foie gras into every other dish, but when the result is their classic brill paired with ethereal foie gras ravioli, the tab becomes an afterthought.

Closed Sundays.

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